Sannihit Sarovar: Our first halt is at the Sannihit Sarovar which is also the first place where pilgrims take a dip during a solar eclipse. Sannihit means the assembly of the entire range of titathas and legend has it that a prayer performed here during amavas (moonless night) guarantees the benefit equal to one thousand Ashvamedha sacrifices.

Pandit Pawan Kumar, a local godman, walks up to us and offers to trace our ancestry for a consideration. He takes us into a dingy room and works out our lineage in under a minute. Even computers would be hard put to achieve this feat.

“These pattas [records] have been handed down from generation to generation,” he tells us. “I can trace my family history down to the days of the Mahabharata. I am blessed to be born here in this holy place.”

Sannihit Sarovar the Pandit tells us is the only place that has been visited by all but one of the Sikh Gurus. For each Guru there is a Gurudwara to commemorate his visit. This is also the only place where even the British came for a holy dip. On our left, is the fading plaque commemorating the visit of Sir Edward McLogan, the Governor of Punjab in 1921.

Nabhi Kamal: The Nabhi Kamal is a sacred tank. It is believed that the tank houses a sacred lotus which happens to play abode to Lord Bramha (one of the Trinity Gods). The Lord is believed to have manifested from the navel of the lotus.

Brahma Sarovar: An 8 kms drive brings us to the Brahma Sarovar, the central point where pilgrims converge after a dip in the Sannihit. A row of deodar trees and two islands in the middle of the tank add to Brahma’s beauty considerably. One of the islands is said to be the place where Brahma first performed his yajna.

Believed to have been excavated by King Kuru long before the epic battle of Mahabharata, the Brahma Sarovar is flanked by temples and places of Puranic interest. Ruins of some structures standing on the bigger island are said to be the remains of a small castle which Aurangzeb built. “This is one of the most sacred tanks,” Sharma tells us. “A part of the ashes of Mahatma Gandhi were immersed in it.”

As the Safari makes its way to Jyotisar, we are assailed by a feeling of awe. We are treading on history itself–not just ancient history, we are in the land of folklore. Here great empires rose and fell: a mighty city reached its pinnacle of glory and decayed slowly into oblivion to be rediscovered and reconstructed centuries later by archaeologists.

Narkatari Temple: It was here that Bhishma Pitamah (grandfather of Pandavas and Kauravas) lay down on a bed of arrows. Don’t expect to see the bed, although a temple now stands here. Close by is the Banganga (or Bhishma Kund), a water tank. Legend says that when Bhishma Pitamah was dying on his bed of arrows and was thirsty, Arjuna shot an arrow into the ground and out spouted water.

Sheikh Chehli Mausoleum: Towards the north of Thanesar and over looking the sarai built by Sher Shah Suri is the marble tomb of Sheikh Chehli, an Iranian Sufi saint. He was laid to rest in this tomb, which had originally been built for Hazrat Kutub, Jalaluddin under orders of Shahjahan, out of his great respect and regard for Hazrat Sahib.

Sri Krishna Museum: Set up by the Kurukshetra Development Board, Sri Krishna Museum has on display varied phases of the Lord’s life. Patta Chitra, Kangra, Madhubani and Pichhawai paintings, bronze collection dating to the times of the Pallava, Chola and Nayaka period.

Gita Jayanti celebrations: The Gita Jayanti is a famous celebration of this place, during the ending of November and the start of December. Bhagwat Gita Recitals, Aartis and ‘deep daan’ are some of the aspects of celebration. The festival is a celebration of the movement when Lord Krishna was charioteer of Arjun and delivered him the Gita Updesh-which advocated path of selfless ‘Karma’, ‘Gyana’ and unwavering devotion to the Almighty.

Gurudwaras and Rajghat: Kurukshetra plays domain to many of the Sikh temples in the vicinity. The Gurudwara near Sannihit tank which is dedicated to Guru Hargobind Singh. The Rajghat Gurudwara is dedicated to Guru Gobind Singh’s visit to Kurukshetra. It is the largest Sikh temple in the town and is located near the Kurukshetra tank. Gurudwara Sidhbati also is a famous place where Guru Nanak stayed when he visited Kurukshetra. There is another Gurudwara dedicated to the eighth Sikh Guru Harikishan. The miraculous saint is believed to have made a deaf and mute boy well versed in chanting the Bhagwad Gita. A camp has also been set up near Sthaneshwar Teertha where a Gurudwara currently exists that is dedicated to the ninth guru Tegh Bahadur.

Excursions

Falgu: Or, ‘Furl’ as locals name it, lies 53 kms from Kurukshetra. Legend has it, that on the request of Lord Brahma, Lord Vishnu himself appeared here. This tale finds mention in the Narad Puran. A dip in the waters of the tank here, say locals, bring upon one wealth and prosperity. The Ghats of the kund have been improved with red stone. Renovation work of the area is in progress.

Kalayat: 70 km from Kurukshetra on the Kaithal-Narwana Road lies another holy centre named Kalayat. The town has been named after Kapil Muni, the 10th son of Kardam Rishi, son of Brahma. The writing of ‘Shankhya Shastra’ is attributed to him. Waters of the tank located here are considered to have healing powers.

On days of Kartika Purnima, a number of devotees assemble here. A temple near the holy water tank is dedicated to Katyayani Devi. People come in large numbers to worship here.

Bhishma Kund: Lying about 3 miles from Kurukshetra, is the Bhishma Kund. 0n the last legs of this war, Bhishma lay wounded on a bed of arrows. And as the end came near, he felt thirsty. The Kauravas, who were guarding him zealously, were unable to help him quench his thirst. At this Bhishma, who was the family elder of both the Kauravas and the Pandavas called for Arjun. Arjun’s arrow is said to have brought the waters of holy Ganges.

Ban Ganga: 5 km away from Kurukshetra-Kirmich Road lies yet another site famous as the Ban Ganga. A tank of approximately 78×110 feet in dimension, a Hanuman temple and images of the Mahabharata heroes are installed here. Legend has it that when Arjun learnt of the death of his son Abhimanyu, he vowed to kill Jaidrath by dusk, or kill himself if he did not succeed. Battle strategies were grim. And so the Kauravas hid Jaidrath hoping Arjun, upon non-fulfilment of his vow, would kill himself. Arjun in his search for Jaidrath had to fight rows and rows of enemies.

The horses of Arjun became wounded and tired. On the order of Lord Krishna his charioteer, Arjun struck an arrow in the earth and a spring erupted. He made an enclosure with his arrows where Lord Krishna bathed the horses, washed their wounds with his garment and helped them quench their thirst. A fair is held here on the day of Baisakhi.

Around Kurukshetra

Thanesar- Sacred Town of Hindus: Near Kurukshetra, Thanesar is a sacred town for Hindus because the Shiva in the form of linga (organ) was first worshipped here. Kuru, the Kauravas and Pandavas’ ancestor, meditated on the banks of the Yamuna and Parshhuram killed many Kshtriyas here. King Harsha was born here, ascended the throne at the age of 16 and ruled for 41 years, sharing his seat of power with his widowed sister whom he had rescued from Sati (self immolation).

During his rule, the reknowned Chinese traveller Huen Tsang lived in Thanesar for a number of years and Bana Bhatt, the celebrated Sanskrit scholar, met Harsha here. Sultan Muhammad plundered the city in AD 1014, destroyed most if its temples and carried away as much gold as he could. Akbar brought peace, but Aurangzed just messed things up for the Hindus because it was a sacred place for them.