More exotic, though less accessible, is the region of Ladakh, beyond the Kashmir Valley. It is a mountainous land on the edge of the Tibetan Plateau which is still largely Tibetan in character. The capital, Leh, is situated high in the Karakouram mountain range, through which passed the old Silk Road from China to India and Europe.

The West

Mumbai (Bombay)

The principal metropolis of Western India is Mumbai, the capital of the state of Maharashtra, a bustling port and commercial center, with plate-glass skyscrapers and modern industry jostling alongside bazaars and a hectic streetlife. Many of the country’s films are made in the famous Mumbai studios. The city also boasts one of the finest race tracks in India, the Mahalaxmi course.

There is a pleasant seafront with a palm-lined promenade and attractive beaches such as Juhu, Versova, Marve, Madh and Manori. On the waterfront is Mumbai’s best-known landmark, the Gateway to India, whence boats leave on the 10km (6 mile) journey across the busy harbor to the Elephanta Island. The island is famous for the eighth-century cave temples, on whose walls are large rock carvings, the finest of which is the three-faced Maheshmurti, the great Lord.

Maharashtra
To the east of Mumbai is Aurangabad, the starting point for visits to two of the world’s most outstanding rock-cut temples. The Buddhist cave temples at Ajanta date back at least 2000 years. Cut into the steep face of a deep rock gorge, the 30 caves contain exquisite paintings depicting daily life at that time.

The caves at Ellora depict religious stories and are Hindu, Buddhist and Jain in origin. The Temple of Kailasa is the biggest hewn monolith temple in the world. Southeast of Mumbai are several fine hill stations, notably Matheran with its narrow gauge trains, and Mahabaleshwar. The thriving city of Pune with its peaceful Bund Gardens and its cultural attractions is also in this area.

Gujarat
To the north of Mumbai lies the state of Gujarat, renowned for its silks, as the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi, and as the last refuge of the Asian lion, found deep in the Gir Forest. Ahmedabad, in the east of the state, is the principal textile city of India, producing silks which are famous throughout the world. Ahmadabad is also the site of Sabarmati Ashram, founded by Mahatma Gandhi, from where his ideology of non-violence is still promoted. Gandhi’s birthplace is some 320km (200 miles) to the west, in the fishing village of Porbandar.

Goa
To the south of Maharashtra lies Goa. The 100km- (60 mile-) long coastline offers some of the finest beaches in the subcontinent. Goa was Portuguese until 1961, and there is also a charming blend of Latin and Indian cultures. Panaji, the state capital, is one of the most relaxed and elegant of India’s cities.

The town is dominated by the huge Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, but the shops, bars and pleasant streets are its main attraction. ‘Old Goa‘, only a bus ride away from Panaji, displays a bewildering variety of architectural styles. Buildings of note include the Basilica and the Convent and Church of St Francis of Assisi. In nearby Ponda is the 400-year-old Temple of Shri Mangesh, which is said to be the oldest Hindu shrine.

Goa’s infamous hippies are being replaced by backpackers, Indian visitors and package tourists. Full moon parties still take place in Anjuna but are smaller and less authentic than in the heady days of the 1960s.

Anjuna is also famous throughout Goa for its Wednesday flea market. If you are looking for beautiful, quiet beaches head for the South between Benaulim and Palolem. Accommodation in the region includes the luxury resort of Aguada, the Taj holiday village and the Aguada hermitage. There are also good, simple hotels and cottages for rent in villages along the coastline, notably Calangute, Baga and Colva.

Goa also has several wildlife sanctuaries, including Bondla in the hills of western Ghats, where wild boar and sambar can be seen in their natural habitat. The region is famous for its food - an array of dishes, both Indian and Portuguese - as well as for its colorful festivals, including the spectacular Carnival held on the three days leading up to Ash Wednesday.

The South
The south is the part of India least affected by incursions of foreign cultures through the centuries. It is here that Indian heritage has survived in its purest form.

Chennai
The regional capital is Chennai (formerly Madras), India’s fourth-largest city and capital of the state of Tamil Nadu. Chennai is the cradle of the ancient Dravidian civilization, one of the oldest articulate cultures in the world.

It is also home of the classical style of Indian dancing and a notable center of temple sculpture art. Sprawling over 130 sq km (50 sq miles), the metropolis has few tall buildings and enjoys the relaxed ambience of a market town rather than the bustle of a huge city. From Chennai Lighthouse there is a fine view of the city that includes many churches which tell of the city’s strong Christian influence, first introduced in AD 78 when the apostle St Thomas was martyred here.

Chennai, however, is largely a commercial city and the center of the area’s rail, air and road networks, and serves as a good starting point from which to explore the south.

Tamil Nadu
Within the state are several important religious centers, notably Kanchipuram, which has an abundance of temples, and whose striking gopurams, or gateways, are decorated with sculptures of gods and goddesses. Inland is Madurai, with a large and bustling temple, and Thanjavur. Also worth visiting is Tiruchirappalli, which has a fortress built atop a strange boulder-shaped hill that dominates the town.

Further south, along the coast, is Pondicherry, an attractive town with a distinctive French style, and beyond, Rameswaram, once the ferry link to Sri Lanka.